September 2008

New York Fashion Week

September 4, 2008, New York -- Labor Day has come and gone and we find ourselves on the cusp of another New York Fashion Week, this time for the Spring 2009 Collections.  We received a great response to our daily updates last season, so we’re going to do it again and try to bring you the latest news and trends for spring so you’ll know what you’ll be wearing six months from now.  We start our quest tomorrow and the next ten days are particularly packed, so check back for lots of good insider info in the coming days.


Day 1

Shows:
Cushnie et Ochs
Shipley and Halmos
Rachel Comey
Robert Geller

September 5, 2008, New York – Today marked the first day of fashion week here in New York where designers present their Spring 2009 collections. For us at Mick Margo, today marked the day we set out to find the best of the best for our customers. We are committed to scouring the runways in the coming weeks to keep you all dressed in the latest from our favorite designers. We run around the city to see as many shows as possible in hopes of bringing you a well edited selection into the shop for next season.

So the day started with a few hours in the store putting the Fall 2008 collections on the racks. Then it was off to a flurry of afternoon shows. First stop was Cushnie et Ochs, a new Parsons graduated design duo who produced a line up of slim fitting dresses and jackets. The pieces were sexy to say the least and seemed rather hard to pull off, but seeing the designers themselves rocking the looks to take their bows seemed inspiration enough for some.

Another highlight from the day occurred at Shipley and Halmos. While there was no wow factor involved in this show, as a buyer I was impressed with the wear-ability of each of the looks. I could envision the clothes on my girlfriends and it made me smile to think of this collection hanging in the shop. The stand out pieces were the black mini shorts with side zippers and the simple cream short-sleeve crewneck blouse which was so Audrey Hepburn.

Next it was off to catch Rachel Comey, who always seems to find an offbeat location to display her talent. The audience was seated across from a mirrored wall in a dance studio on the third floor of a random midtown building. Live music played from one end of the room for what seemed like an eternity on this hot summer day and then the show began and I quickly realized it was worth the wait. The looks were bright and playful with plenty of cinched waists. Comey brought back her popular double buckle belt and had a fresh take on her clog sandals. I kept asking myself how she does it each season. She creates a look that is effortless yet unique and styled in such a way that you'd never thought of before. The models had earrings piled all along their ears from top to bottom and hot-rolled bangs that hit mid-forehead. The floral prints and baggy cropped pants will surely be a hit this spring season. Kudos to Comey for pulling it off again, all while making it look effortless!

The day ended with a stop at Robert Geller's show which was packed with some of New York's most fashionable males. I had never been to a men's fashion show before and was fascinated by how closely the designer's own sense of style mirrors the looks that he sent down the runway. I know this one's not on the stocklist at MM, but I was so impressed with the leather jackets that I just might have to buy one for myself in a small size. It was about to downpour so we jumped in a cab and headed to a neighborhood restaurant, Blaue Gans, for some good wine and comfort food after a long day. Until tomorrow. –Nadine Ferber

 

 

 

 

 		 
 

A look from the Shipley and Halmos Runway Show - Shorts with Side Zip

A key look from Rachel Comey - Floral Print Top with Baggy Cropped Pants

Day 2

Shows:
Kristiania
Vena Cava
Karen Walker
Catherine Holstein
Alexander Wang
Lerario Beatriz

A look from Catherine Holstein - I loved this jumpsuit in the print, though would find myself wearing the solid black since it's less of a risk

A look from Alexander Wang - The "Notebook Print" tank was an instant favorite

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 		   September 6, 2008, New York – Today was a busy one with 6 shows in 5 hours.  Not only were we pressed for time trying to make each show, but tropical storm Hanna snuck in at the start of our day leaving us looking like drowned rats for most of the afternoon. 

We started with Kristiania at the Scandinavia House on Park Avenue—a decidedly swank location for a sophisticated new collection.  This newcomer is a graduate of Parsons and a veteran of Narcisco Rodriguez, so it wasn’t surprising to see intricate tailoring in the jackets and especially the bodice of his dresses.  His star will definitely be on the rise in seasons to come and he is certainly one to watch.

We grabbed a cab and headed over to the Vena Cava presentation at the Chelsea Art Museum where we were wowed by the turnout as much as the clothes.  The place was packed with buyers, press and celebs all grooving to the live music of White Magic.  Always steady with amazing silk concoctions, I particularly loved a spaghetti strap dress with a brocade skirt and a nipped at the waist vest with ever-so-slight shoulder pads.  Unfortunately we couldn’t stay long to enjoy what seemed to be turning into a fun party because we were already late for the Karen Walker Runway show, so we grabbed one of the Via Spiga umbrellas they were handing out and ran (Via Spiga did the shoes for the presentation).

Always impeccably styled, this season we saw many of the girls on the Karen Walker runway coming down in very tall straw sunhats and her eponymous eyewear line.  Paired with any her featherweight blousy top and pleated cropped pants, I found a look to live in this spring.

Next up was Catherine Holstein, another relatively new face on the fashion scene.  We’ve been looking at her collection for the past few seasons, watching it grow and evolve, but haven’t yet added it to the MM roster.  I think this could be the season we’re converted into full-fledged fanatics.  I felt just like Nadine did about Shipley and Halmos’s show in that nothing had that real editorial “wow” factor, but every single look that came down the runway was completely and totally wearable.  One of the standouts was her printed jumpsuit, which just popped for me and really flattered the figure (and also came down in black for people like me who might not want a head to toe print).  I also loved her tile skirt with the striped blue top—an easy to wear, everyday woman look.

Editorial darling Alexander Wang was up next at the industrial-chic Eyebeam space in west Chelsea.  We arrived in the heaviest rain of the afternoon, but were immediately whisked into the show by Catherine from The News and were so grateful not to have to wait outside in the rain.  The show is always a favorite of mine for the clothes, of course, but the people watching is just fantastic.  Packed with socialites and celebs, there’s always such a fun energy in the room.  Ever channeling the 80’s, this season is all about the skin tight pant, oversized cotton sweater and various takes on the skin tight mini-dress.  I am always a sucker for his silk tanks and this season’s “Notebook Print” version is no different.  It was only appropriate that Office Max was one of his sponsors this season and gave all the show attendants the classic Composition Notebooks that this print was designed after. 

Our final stop of the day was at the Players Club on Gramercy Park for the Lerario Beatriz presentation.  Nadine and I both count designer Ana Lerario as a friend and are definitely partial to her ethereal designs.  Standouts this season were her cropped linen pants, a plum stripe poplin dress and her closing backless gown in fuchsia.  After braving the rain, I was ready to get home, inside and in some dry clothes—no way was I going to brave a night out in this! –Cary Weekes

Day 3

Shows:
Diane von Furstenburg
Staerk
Cassette

September 7, 2008, New York – Even though it's a Sunday, nothing slows down for fashion week today. The weekend is a busy time in the shop so you have to pick and choose what is going to pull you away over the weekend and there were 3 shows that got me out of the shop today.

The first was Diane von Furstenberg's show at the main tent in Bryant Park.  DVF has a long history and now that von Furstenberg is the president of the CFDA she is highly regarded as a woman who sets the tone across the entire fashion industry. The theme of her Spring 2009 collection was "Rock Goddess" which wasn't totally evident to me as the looks came down the runway, but the look was ethereal and meant for a girl who embraces color. It seemed definitely more goddess than rock to me and there was some goddess presence in the front row: Jennifer Lopez, Venus Williams and Eva Longoria to name a few. The energy in the room shot up when von Furstenberg emerged at the end to take her bow. She looked amazing and overcome with happiness.

After being at the tents I was excited to go to the more accommodating fashion week venue at Bumble and Bumble on 13th St. There Camilla Staerk showed looks that were highlighted by amazing pieces of woven leathers. And my favorite print to see so far this week made it's way down the runway in a blouse that was the perfect shape to pair with my high waisted shorts for the Spring season. Leather has been a big theme so far this week and I can easily say that Staerk has nailed that aspect of her collection.

A quick pit stop at Pastis around the corner for a glass of wine and then it was off to the Cassette Runway show. This designer hails from Los Angeles and shows mens, womens and a complete denim collection. Totally wearable and almost without any color aside from the bright toned jeans, this collection will I'm sure start to show up on the downtown NYC younger crowd.  Vena Cava and Shipley & Halmos are having a joint party on the Mini Rooftop so we'll see where the night takes us and try to get some rest for tomorrow's long day of buying appointments. –Nadine Ferber

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 		 

Diane von Furstenberg takes a bow after her runway show in Bryant Park

A key look from Staerk's Spring 09 Collection

 

Day 4

Alexander Wang Runway vs Reality - You'll find this blazer at MM this spring sans crystals and worn as a jacket with jeans or pleated pants rather than a dress

 

A runway look from Shipley and Halmos you'll likely find on the racks of MM this spring

 

I loved this Lerario Beatriz dress in the showroom, ready to wear in real life without the linen pants

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Showroom Appointments:
Alexander Wang
Shipley and Halmos
Sari
Vena Cava
Lover
Karen Walker
Lerario Beatriz
Maria Bonita Extra
Gryson
Cloak and Dagger
Invisible Tailors
Sunshine & Shadow
Publika
Scout


September 8, 2008, New York – I couldn’t have been more excited for today, our first day of buying appointments and we were booked wall to wall with some of our favorite collections.  I always look forward to the showroom visits because it’s when we really get to see the clothes up close and personal and make decisions on what we see our customers wearing next season.  Another favorite part of the appointments for me is the runway vs. reality aspect of the collections because so often collections are highly styled for the runway, but it's not necessarily how you'd wear it in real life.  You can see what I mean by the pictures at left.

The day started at multi-line showroom The News with Alexander Wang.  I fell in love with a long double-breasted blazer that we saw come down the runway, but with crystals and worn as a barely there dress rather than a blazer.  I also loved his “sweat shorts” made from Japanese cotton and meant to be worn with killer pumps more than sneakers.  Wang has taken his t-shirts out of the main collection this season and launched a diffusion line called “T” with all his signature mini-pocket tees and tanks.  I was especially delighted to learn that he’s found a way to keep the prices down on these pieces without sacrificing any of the quality he’s known for.

Nadine had already taken a peak at Shipley and Halmos prior to the show and taken notes on it, but the line has recently opened up to sales on the web and I couldn’t be more thrilled.  The looks I loved from the runway were equally as stunning in person and up close—something that doesn’t always happen.  I just know our web customers are going to love it come spring.

Next in the showroom was Sari, Sari Gueron’s diffusion line of affordable dresses and tops just launched for Fall 2008.  Just her second season, she’s showing her strength in easy day dresses and skirts.  I particularly loved a blue striped skirt with wood buttons up the front paired with a white jersey cap sleeve top with similar buttons on the sleeve.  Vena Cava was next on the roster with a collection much larger than what we saw at the presentation.  Hits were a two-tone chiffon dress with a leather tie cinching the waist, a black silk tank with plum metallic lace accenting the bust and simple black silk skirt.

Then we headed across the street to the Press Office where we saw two great lines from Sydney, Lover and Karen Walker.  We found only a few items at Karen Walker including a pencil skirt version of the swing skirt from last spring, so it’s not a collection you’ll likely see on our racks next year.  But her eyewear continues to amaze us with new style “Trixie” and our old favorite “Annie” that has been reissued to deliver in a few weeks.  Check the site in the coming weeks for these styles!  Lover’s main collection is always tempting, but we fell in love with their swim collection because of the classic shapes in great fabrics and the one pieces that aren’t too revealing but still sexy.

Lunchtime was quickly passing us by, so we stopped at Balthazar for a quick soup and sandwich before heading down to 52 Showroom in Tribeca to see Lerario Beatriz.  Brazilian designer Ana Lerario’s collection is stronger each season and spring is her best yet.  Favorite pieces were a plum skirt, a pinstripe cotton dress with ruffled bottom and plate-bead detail and an ivory silk dress with a petal shaped panel in front.  Also at 52 was Maria Bonita Extra, a spring staple at MM due to the easy jersey and cotton dresses at prices that don’t pinch your pocket.

Next it was around the corner to the newly renovated Steven Alan Showroom where with a glass of champagne in hand we checked out Gryson’s new styles.  Designer Joy Gryson created a chic new group with woven handles and we opted for the hobo style in a rich brown color.  We also fell in love with a hand-woven clutch, but retailing over $1000, it was just out of our price range.  In their new downstairs space we saw Cloak and Dagger, which is definitely evolving with softer fare in the mix, Sunshine & Shadow, who is back after a season off, and Invisible Tailors, a line of affordable yet well made leather jackets—a HUGE trend for fall.  We also found a new line called Publika with a very strong selection of skirts and tops, something you’ll be seeing a lot of since the days where the dress reigned supreme are coming to an end.

Finally we were off to our last appointment of the day at emProductions where we saw Scout, the line from the LA store of the same name.  It’s a little young for MM, but the jersey pieces are undeniably easy to wear and great wardrobe additions.

The Ports 1961 runway show at Bryant Park was also on today’s agenda, but with a full 9 hours already under our belts we had to call it a day.  After all, this was only our first day of buying and we have another full week ahead of us with the tradeshows coming up.  –Cary Weekes

Day 5

September 9, 2008, New York – Today started off with one of my favorite collections: Rachel Comey.  She doesn’t have a dedicated showroom space, but after several seasons showing in a Tribeca loft she moved to a friend’s loft in Soho that also doubles as a bed and breakfast.  I’m always amazed at how many color and fabric options there are for each style and this season was no different.  I fell in love with her solid silk/linen fabric right away which came in everything from pants and skirts to tops and bottoms—and the best news is that it doesn’t wrinkle nearly as quickly or as drastically as 100% linen.  You’ll definitely be finding lots of this at MM come February.  And her Japanese floral print on mauve was truly unique and so wearable, we opted for it in both a dress and a top.  Rachel’s shoes are always a highlight and standouts this year were her sandals with elastic straps and the sandals with a cap heel and suede ruffle detail.  We always have such fun catching up with Rachel, it’s always hard to leave and head to the next appointment, but it was time to press onward.  And for the second time this week, it was pouring rain.

Off to Addison Crescent showroom on Broadway to see these LA girls who come in town for just a couple weeks each season to bring us the best of Los Angeles fashion.  We checked out Riser, a new line with lots of great jersey and cotton voile pieces.  I loved the fact that the sheer voile tops and dresses came with a lining so you’re never fumbling around your closet for something to wear underneath.  I also fell in love with Kain, a t-shirt line all made with modal and silk, so you’ve never felt anything so soft.  Between this and Alexander Wang’s “T” line, you’re never going to want to wear anything but tees next spring.  

Then it was over to Opening Ceremony’s new showroom space next door to their Soho store.  We’ve looked at Opening Ceremony’s line a few seasons now and they’ve really hit their stride with spring.  Some standouts were their jackets, one that was just a great everyday lightweight spring coat with a zip out hood and another was a waterproof nylon pea coat that zipped into its own pocket and ships with a carabineer in case you have the urge to clip it to your belt loop.  And girls, it’s time to start working on those abs because the cropped top is back, so let this be your fair warning.  We saw it on the runway at Alexander Wang, we saw it at Kain and here it is again at Opening Ceremony paired with a flouncy, grey tech fabric skirt in a cool kelly green.  Other favorites in the collection were a chic fitted racer back black dress and a pair of heels with a zipper front and stacked heel.  We also checked out Alexander Wang muse Erin Wasson’s new line that will have very limited distribution for its first season.  Expect to see her airy tanks and ripped denim at Barneys in NYC this spring.

After a quick lunch at Le Pain Quotidian, Nadine and I headed up to W29 showroom where we found one of our favorite new lines of the season, which was a bit of a surprise since it is a denim line.  Maise is out of Australia and designed by the former denim designer for Topshop.  The small collection had not a single bad shape or wash and we just didn’t know how to narrow it down.  Favorites were a worn in black skinny jean and a high waisted wide leg.  You’ll definitely be finding these at MM come spring.  Sadly, we spent so much time with the jeans, we missed Araks’s show in Bryant Park, but will definitely be checking out her collection in the showroom in the coming weeks.

The last stop of the day was in a penthouse space on Madison for Rittenhouse, a line we’ve been following for a while out of Australia.  The Rittenhouse girl is all grown up now with easy to wear cotton dresses, airy tops and flowy skirts.  –Cary Weekes 		 

Showroom Appointments:
Rachel Comey
Riser
Kain
Opening Ceremony
Erin Wasson
Maise
Rittenhouse

 

Rachel Comey's Japanese Floral Print Dress, a favorite on the runway and in the showroom

A look from Maise's denim line from their Fall 08 collection, available only in Australia.  Look for a similar style at MM this spring.

Day 6

September 10th, 2008, New York — Today is a sort of break for us.  Time to catch up on all the other work we haven’t been able to get to for the past week.  Between the daily duties in the shop and the daily updating of the site, we are behind and taking this day to do things like send you that nifty email about this very web page.  Keep checking back though as we still have 5 more days of fashion week and buying events to go! – Cary Weekes
 

Day 7

A swimwear look from VPL

A skort Jumper from Catherine "Queen of the Jumper" Holstein.

Catherine Holstein's "Chanel Short"

 		  

Showroom Appointments:
Tila March
Ports 1961
Current Elliot
Crispin & Basilio
Les Prairies des Paris
Deere Colhoun
Catherine Holstein

Shows:
VPL

September 11th, 2008, New York — Another jam packed day today and I couldn’t be happier to have had a little down time yesterday to rest my tired, pregnant feet.  This morning started at CD Network, a multi-line showroom in Chelsea carrying many European Collections as well as a few local lines.  We took saw one of our favorite new bag lines, Tila March, from Paris and loved the new color options for the Zelig Tote and were so happy to find the Zelig Shoulder bag is going to be available in leather for spring.  I was especially excited to see that Tila March is now offering shoes, a favorite style being a wedge espadrille made by espadrille masters Castaner in Spain.

From there it was around the corner to Ports 1961 where we had more of a difficult time finding shapes and silhouettes we loved that were still affordable.  For example, a favorite was the beige double-faced cashmere coat that will retail for somewhere around $3000.  But we did find a few dresses we loved to bring to those Ports devotees.

Next we were off to 10 Eleven showroom on Bryant Park where we fell in love with new denim line Current Elliot.  Their boyfriend jean was to die for and so much more flattering than Alexander Wang’s version, which was cut only for those with model height and figures. It was such a hit, we’re bringing it to you a season early, so be on the look out for these jeans in November.

A quick stop at LA based Marked Showroom’s outpost for the week for Crispin & Basilio proved promising.  The strongest pieces were a chiffon tank and a silk wrap dress, both seemingly simple but with such intricate detailing.  The collection is so delicate, but somehow achieves such affect without being too girly or overly sweet.  It is definitely different than anything else we’ve seen and liked this season.

Then Nadine and I hopped in a cab and rushed down to the VPL show, which we certainly didn’t want to miss.  Always impeccably styled and packed with socialites and celebs, this season was no different.  Her shows are always a mix of her ready to wear, swimwear and lingerie for some intriguing looks and we always love her shoes and this year she’s teamed with LD Tuttle for what look to be some exciting new styles.  I particularly loved her one shouldered bathing suit that came down the runway in a hot pink neon shade and I’m seriously looking forward to finding out what other colors it will be offered in.  

After the show, we headed over another NYC outpost of a LA showroom and saw Les Prairies de Paris and Deere Colhoun with Tricot.   Deere Colhoun has gravitated towards their novelty colors in their bags for spring, which bring a lighter sensibility to the collection.  And Les Prairies des Paris is looking good again with some strong cotton and silk dresses as well as some awesome footwear.  I found myself eyeing a suede round toe t-strap shoe and a black suede sling back sandal, both of which you’ll find at MM in March.

At last we were off to Denise Williamson to see Catherine Holstein.  If you recall, we saw the show the other day and I loved it.  Well, after seeing the collection in person, I’m going so far to say it was my favorite collection of the season.  The jumpsuit was just as amazing in person as on the runway, there were other jumpers that were equally as cute (Catherine certainly deserves the title of “Queen of the Jumper” since she’s mastered this spring trend better than anyone) and we loved her linen shorts, they’ve dubbed the “Chanel Short” since they seem to fit just so.  We’ve been watching the line for a couple seasons and are so excited to bring her into the Mick Margo family and I just know you all are going to love her.

Now I’m off to put up my feet and see if I can convince my sweet husband to cook for me again, but I might be pushing my luck since he’s already done it twice this week! —Cary Weekes

 

 

 

 

 

 

A View of Fashion Week from a Young & Fresh Perspective:  Our Intern

September 12, 2008, New York— New York fashion week has been an incredibly thrilling and challenging week for me. Newly appointed as assistant buyer at Mick Margo, I have been following Nadine and Cary around to every appointment on their extensive schedule for the season. Putting our staminas to the test, we quickly gulped down cups of coffee at each showroom we went to – and paused for yet another cup in between. But once the caffeine hits and our brains start functioning properly, my enthusiasm skyrockets as we view each designer’s collection for spring 2009.

We have been lucky enough to see some of the most exciting presentations and shows this season. Some particular highlights for me have definitely been the Vena Cava presentation and the Alexander Wang runway show, both of which we fled to in the middle of torrential rain storms on Saturday. Both shows featured enormous, energy-high crowds, all looking in awe at the newest creations these young, fresh designers have produced. The energy was infinite, and mounting every second. But another great part of this experience has been the opportunity to see the collections up close, sitting down with designers or in showrooms to get a personal first glimpse of the pieces, away from the lights and frenzy of the show. At these times, the collection is more than a celebration or party; it’s a tangible testimonial to months of hard work, a showcase of quality and craftsmanship and artistic thought. It’s also where our work, and my individual learning, begins. Handling each item and eyeing each collection critically, it is our challenge to weed through and choose only the best pieces to make next season at Mick Margo the best yet for our customers.  

From the extreme exhaustion after a 7-hour day of back-to-back shows, presentations, and appointments, to the educational guidance provided by Nadine and Cary, fashion week has been the most rewarding learning experience I think I will have all year – and has made me undoubtedly eager for February to arrive. –Hayley Coupon 		 
 

A Key Look from Alexander Wang's

SS08 Runway Collection